Of course talking about Indian food as one entity is absurd. While there are certain ingredients and techniques that tie Indian food together as a whole, the country is immense and extraordinarily diverse. Two thousand miles separate one end from the other, both north to south and east to west. Different climatic regions, different cultures, different religions all make for numerous kinds of cuisines. In the wet areas of southern and eastern India rice is the staple crop, while bread is the staff of life in the drier north.

Seafood abounds in the coastal areas, and in the mountainous regions fruits are the most cultivated crop.

Many of the inhabitants of the subcontinent are vegetarians of one kind or another, mostly because of religious beliefs.

While we may think vegetarianism implies only not eating meat, many Indians don?t eat eggs, and there are some sects that avoid all red vegetables and fruits for their resemblance to blood.

The common thread in Indian cuisine is the use of spices. What is known of as the Indian?s alchemy of spices is the secret that enables even the poorest of cooks to turn a simple dish into a succulent affair. While many commercial spice combinations are now widely available, spices are still sold in the bazaars all over India and all good cooks buy their own to put in spice chests and then to concoct their own special mixtures. No self respecting Indian cook would use anything sold as curry powder much as in Mexico chile powder is an unknown quantity.

What distinguishes one cook?s curry from another cook?s is his imagination, just as a Mexican mole differs from home to home.

A blend of dried spices in India is known as a masala and it should be a harmonious combination of taste. There is the garam masala which uses ground spices and what is sometimes called full masala when the spices are left whole.

The key to the delicacy of Indian cooking is proper cooking that releases the full flavor of the spices.

Spices are generally added at the beginning of the cooking process so they don?t taste raw. When spices are added to uncooked dishes, such as raitas, they are usually toasted first.

The most common spices you will need for basic Indian cooking are coriander seeds, cumin seeds, fenugreek seeds, poppy seeds, black peppercorns, black and yellow mustard seeds, ground turmeric, ground ginger, cardamom pods, cloves, dried chiles, cinnamon, fennel seeds, nutmeg and mace. Good spices have to be fresh, so it is advisable to buy small quantities unless you plan to cook in serious amounts.

Another important part of Indian food, essentially in the northern part of India, is ghee, or clarified butter. Butter is clarified as it has a higher smoking point than ordinary butter. But you probably won?t want to go through this process for just one meal, so many Indian cooks suggest using a combination of sweet (unsalted) butter and a light vegetable oil such as peanut or sunflower. This way you get a higher smoking point than butter alone and still have a butter flavor.

In Mexico City you can find most of the spices, as well as chick pea flour, all kinds for lentils for making dal and basmati rice, at the wonderful health food stores called Hansa.

There is one in Lomas de Chapultepec on Cerrada de Monte Líbano 16 (Tel. 5520-7606). Call them for the locations of their other stores. You can also try La Criolla on Julio Verne 90, Col. Polanco.

CHICKEN WITH RICE, TURMERIC & BROCCOLI

1 tablespoon sweet butter, plus more for browning
1 tablespoon vegetable oil, plus more for browning
2 large onions, slivered
8 chicken thighs
2 tablespoons turmeric (cúrcuma)
1/4 cup unsweetened tamarind concentrate (available at any supermarket)
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
1 teaspoon sugar
Salt, to taste
1 serrano chile, seeded and minced
2 cups warm stock
1 large clove garlic, peeled and minced
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 cups long grain rice
4 cups stock
1 1/2 cups broccoli florets

Heat the butter and oil over medium heat in a large skillet. Add the onions and cook until transparent, about 10 minutes.

Remove to a plate and set aside. Dust the chicken thighs with the turmeric, covering them well. (A good idea is to wear rubber gloves while doing this as turmeric leaves your hands yellow.)

Add a little more oil and butter to the skillet and brown the chicken on both sides. Put back the onions and add the tamarind concentrate, ginger, sugar, salt, chili and stock. Cover, lower the flame and cook for 35 to 40 minutes, or until the chicken is tender.

Heat more oil over medium-low heat in a heavy saucepan and cook the garlic, cumin and cayenne pepper for 1 minute.

Add the rice and fry for 2 minutes. Pour on the stock and bring to a boil. Lower the flame, cover and cook for 20 minutes.

Steam the broccoli florets for 3 minutes and then add quickly to the rice. Cover the rice again and leave for 5 minutes. Arrange the chicken and onions over the rice and pour over the juice. Makes 4 servings.

VickyCowal@prodigy.net.mx